tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40327198146263051022024-03-26T23:37:42.119-07:00Technical Pool RepairCalifornia title 20 energy efficiency intelliflow two-speed pumps green technology pentair jandy TriStar sce upa ipsaClint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-80154908185970748122024-02-01T09:26:00.000-08:002024-02-01T09:33:35.489-08:00Basic Spa Care<p><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This advice is intended for personal backyard spas that are only used by a couple of people and stay covered all the time. </span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Get a test kit that can measure Bromine, pH, and Alkalinity. I prefer the ones that use drops, but you can also use strips. (I just have trouble discerning the colors on the strips and can see the color change with the drops better.) Test about once a week. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">If the pH or Alkalinity is low -- add Baking Soda (a couple of tablespoons at a time)</span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">If the pH or Alkalinity is high -- add acid (dry acid is safer for spas) (a couple of tablespoons at a time) </span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">For sanitizing, I recommend using 1" bromine tablets in a floater. (If your skimmer has a dedicated place for tablets, you can put them there.) Two or three at a time should be fine. They stay in all the time and provide slow and constant sanitizer.</span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">Every couple of weeks you can add an oxidizer shock. Use potassium monopersulfate (maybe 2-3 Tbs at a time). Do not use chlorine shock. </span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">On alternate weeks from the oxidizer I recommend using an enzyme called Spa Perfect. It gets rid of odors and body oils.</span><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">There will be many weeks that you won't need to do anything except maybe add another bromine tablet.</span></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The spa needs to filter every day, but doesn't need much time--maybe an hour. <br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><br style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #2c363a;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #2c363a;">Taking care of a spa is pretty easy. Less is better. You can run the sanitizer on the low end of ideal since the spa has few people using it. </span></span></div>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-76761672500073333112023-10-19T13:10:00.000-07:002023-10-19T13:10:06.999-07:00Algaecides and Mustard Algae <p> Chlorine will kill most algae, but has a hard time killing mustard algae. Mustard algae is a yellow algae that will grow on the sides of a pool. It generally brushes off easily, but if you don't kill it, it will come back. </p><p>In addition to showing up in the pool, it will also coat the grid inside the filter and cause the filter pressure to build up quickly (sometimes within a day after cleaning). </p><p>The only way to deal with mustard algae is to kill it with one of the following types of algaecide:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Copper based algaecide -- this is my first weapon of choice for mustard algae. You can buy it as a liquid or in a more easy to use canister form (Pool Rx). </li><li>Silver algaecide -- this is another good tool for killing mustard algae.</li><li>Sodium Bromide -- this also works to kill black algae by turning free chlorine into chloramines. While this is not normally a good idea, it works for mustard algae.</li></ul>Each of these is further explained in other posts on this same blog. Look there for further information and be sure to follow package labels for dosing amounts. <p></p><p>With all of these, brushing is essential. As long as the algae is on the side of the pool, it is somewhat protected from the chemicals in the water. Brush daily to put the algae in the water so that the chlorine and algaecide can kill it.</p><p>Finally, if you have mustard algae, you will need to clean your filter often until you kill the algae--and then once after you do kill the algae to remove the dead algae from the filter. As long as there is algae in the pool, your filter pressure will go up and your circulation will be poor. Kill it first, then filter out the dead algae. </p><p>P.S. If treating mustard algae don't bother using an Algae Preventative (it is much too late to use a preventative once you already have it). Also polymer algaecides like algaecide 60, while good for green algae are not going to work for mustard algae. </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-82304961399601270092023-10-19T12:58:00.000-07:002023-10-19T12:58:22.816-07:00Sodium Bromide<p>Sodium Bromide works similar to an algaecide, but what it is really doing in the water is combining with free chlorine to produce chloramines. Now, normally, you don't want chloramines in your water. Also known as combined chlorine, chloramines are largely responsible for the objectionable odor of chlorine. Additionally, they are not as good at killing bacteria as chlorine is. However, <u>chloramines are better suited to kill mustard algae than is free chlorine</u>. </p><p>To use sodium bromide, add an initial dose according to label instructions. At the same time, add extra chlorine. A good rule of thumb is that whenever you add sodium bromide, add a gallon of chlorine at the same time. You need the extra chlorine so that the sodium bromide can use it to form chloramines. Continue adding a smaller maintenance dose for about a month following the initial treatment to ensure that the algae does not return. </p><p>While sodium bromide is effective, try not to use more than recommended on the label and try not to use it for more than a month. Using too much sodium bromide will eventually make it hard for the pool to hold chlorine. </p><p>Sodium bromide is generally packaged as Yellow Out or Yellow Treat or something like that. </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-6974569210807323982023-10-17T16:11:00.004-07:002023-10-17T16:26:37.970-07:00Phosphates<p><span style="font-size: large;"> Phosphates are food for algae--and any other plants</span></p><p>Most phosphate removers are liquids that are added to the pool water. They bind with the phosphates and the resultant slime is collected in the filter. This phosphate slime is a slimy silvery coating that causes filter pressure to climb and circulation to rapidly diminish. If using one of these types of phosphate removers, plan on cleaning your filter a couple of times shortly after adding it. </p><p>A major pool retailer pushes a "Perfect weekly treatment" product that contains a phosphate remover. When a pool owner uses this, I am often called out to troubleshoot a poor circulation issue only to discover that this product is being used. These pool owners will often be quite adamant that the circulation problem can't be a clogged filter because they just cleaned it. And yet, when I take apart the filter I find the tell-tale silver slime coating their grids. Once they stop using the Perfect product, their circulation problem goes away. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">There is a better way to deal with phosphates</span></p><p>It is called <a href="https://www.phoslocker.com/product-page/phoslocker">PhosLocker</a>. It comes in a pouch that you place in your skimmer. As pool water washes over this pouch, the granules inside the pouch absorb the phosphates. You leave the pouch in the skimmer for a month to collect the phosphates. Then, and this is the cool part, you take the pouch out, cut it open and <u>spread in your garden where the trapped phosphates fertilize your plants</u>. After all, phosphates are plant food. So stop feeding your algae and use them to feed your plants. </p><p>Here is a link where you can order <a href="https://www.phoslocker.com/product-page/phoslocker" target="_blank">PhosLocker</a>. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQChNmHcMsUuW0TUNw1ULxKiA-ZBrIbdHg1LO0KEF8E0A98OwIQu_ya6gMwRrQ_uxS8n7S_mDEk628k8xKLFHvONhYkxkSGuEJoSlR4NlKLb2oVmqLI-gKWwp8h3abpX1AyQWk44eFLXexsA3GqY_1q_F4b-pqxeEVyq-SYb1D8gQzGAVJjucTWlmQnCP1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="450" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQChNmHcMsUuW0TUNw1ULxKiA-ZBrIbdHg1LO0KEF8E0A98OwIQu_ya6gMwRrQ_uxS8n7S_mDEk628k8xKLFHvONhYkxkSGuEJoSlR4NlKLb2oVmqLI-gKWwp8h3abpX1AyQWk44eFLXexsA3GqY_1q_F4b-pqxeEVyq-SYb1D8gQzGAVJjucTWlmQnCP1" width="240" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-63870300137243889942023-08-17T14:34:00.002-07:002023-08-17T14:34:32.295-07:00Using Alum as a flocculant <p> When a pool is really green and has so much algae that you can't even see the bottom, it is either time to drain and refill the entire pool or floc the pool and vacuum to waste. A flocculant drops everything to the bottom of the pool so that it can be vacuumed to waste. </p><p>One of the best flocculants is Alum (i.e. Aluminum Sulfate). Alum is Al<sub>2</sub>(SO<sub>4</sub>)<sub>3</sub></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Here is the reaction when added to water: </p><p class="MsoNormal">Al<sub>2</sub>(SO<sub>4</sub>)<sub>3 </sub>+ 6H<sub>2</sub>O
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Symbol;">®</span></span> 2Al<sup>3+</sup> 3SO<sub>4</sub><sup>2-</sup>
+ 6H<sup>+</sup> + 6OH<sup>-</sup> <span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Symbol;">®</span></span>
2Al(OH)<sub>3 </sub>+ 3H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4 <o:p></o:p></sub></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The resulting product is Al(OH)<sub>3 </sub>which is an insoluble floc that will drop everything to the bottom of the pool where it can be vacuumed to waste. This including a good portion of cyanuric acid (stabilizer), carbonate alkalinity,
and calcium hardness. (Adjust as needed after vacuuming and refilling.) <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Besides the floc, the remaining by-product is 3H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4 </sub>(Sulfuric
acid) meaning that adding Alum will lower the pH. You can deal with this in one
of two ways. You can raise the pH to a higher than normal level prior to adding
Alum so that the pH doesn’t drop too low after adding it, however, the Alum
will work better if you add the Alum when the pH is normal (near 7.2) and then raise back as needed after it drops. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Temperature is also important as the water needs to be 70
degrees Fahrenheit or higher for a good chemical reaction to take place. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Dosage isn't precise: dissolve and broadcast 2-6 lbs alum per 10k gallons.
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Where to find it. Alum can be purchased from pool stores,
but you will find better prices on larger quantities at garden centers as alum is
also used in flower gardens. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p><br /><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-92168845100636997592023-08-17T13:32:00.003-07:002023-08-17T13:32:31.812-07:00Silver Algaecide<p> Silver algaecide has an oligodynamic effect on algae. It initially creates pores in the cell's membrane and then damages DND and m-RNA. It denatures its ribosomes, alters its energy drive, and damages the mitochondria causing cellular dismantling and oxidizing vital proteins. "Silver is badass; they use this stuff to kill werewolves." -- From "Mastering the Art of Green-to-Clean," by Rudy Stankowitz in Aqua, August 2023, p, 31. </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-73538893023430787282023-08-17T13:27:00.002-07:002023-08-17T13:27:56.058-07:00 Copper Algaecides <p>It turns out that copper is vital to the survival of algae and photosynthetic bacteria (better known as black algae). So why do algaecides contain copper? </p><p>A little is vital, too much is deadly. It is a bit of a Trojan Horse effect. The algae will readily take in copper, but if it takes in too much then the copper will interfere with the Calvin cycle (i.e. the photosynthesis process whereby carbon dioxide is converted to sugar.) </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-45555839709826313322023-08-08T16:07:00.002-07:002023-08-08T16:07:40.419-07:00First time iAqualink set up<p> If I just installed an iAqualink wifi antenna for you, this is what you need to do to start using your phone to control your pool.</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Make sure your phone is connected to the same wifi network that the iAqualink antenna is. </li><ul><li>(This is for security purposes for the initial setup. Once you have added your system, you can control it from anywhere you have internet access.)</li></ul><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuawPE0SGdiSVQeQe9VcDBVVygBxAZ5ojQUkau4g9Ak3InPbVp3F4niQ9S9JWubtV9QpRzSUb7NLPF22TRpPKN6_LF9i894w_6mQVxDvYe4BPWh15qeH2lRkRUeQHWc-nhFpkfzJaNpYuBDsBj5P1YC00qRR06lkoS3S1ET1hj-z0gQa1jPknsr04lxb7L/s225/iaqualink%20icon.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="225" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuawPE0SGdiSVQeQe9VcDBVVygBxAZ5ojQUkau4g9Ak3InPbVp3F4niQ9S9JWubtV9QpRzSUb7NLPF22TRpPKN6_LF9i894w_6mQVxDvYe4BPWh15qeH2lRkRUeQHWc-nhFpkfzJaNpYuBDsBj5P1YC00qRR06lkoS3S1ET1hj-z0gQa1jPknsr04lxb7L/w103-h103/iaqualink%20icon.png" width="103" /></a></div>Install the iAqualink app by Zodiac Pool Systems. <br /></li><ul><li>(Found on the Apple App Store or Google Play Store.)</li></ul><li>Sign up for a new account. </li><ul><li>Make sure your password meets the listed criteria.</li></ul><li>Add your system. </li><ul><li>Hit the plus sign in the top right corner. </li><li>Select the first line "AquaLink RS, PDA, Z4/TRi).</li></ul><li>Enter your device number. </li><ul><li>It is the 12 digit code printed on the back of the door hanger. It is also on a sticker on the bottom side of the iAqualink antenna. </li></ul><li>Give your system a name. </li><ul><li>If you have only one system the name doesn't matter. It can be your last name, My Backyard Paradise, or anything you want. You will select this every time you log in. If you have two or more systems like for rental properties or vacation homes, then naming them becomes important. </li></ul><li>Wait for it to connect.</li><li>Using your system:</li><ul><li>Each time after logging in, select your system. This will take you to the home screen.</li><li>The Home Screen lets you turn on the pool, the spa, the heater, and set the temperatures. It also displays the current temperature of whatever is on. </li><li>The Equipment Screen is where you turn on features like lights, waterfalls, etc.</li><li>You can set up one-touch scenes if you like. These are macros so that one touch does several things at once. </li><li>The Web button allows access to a more complete, but slower, version of the control system. This is where you edit schedules and set up the system. </li></ul><li>Other people in your household can also have their own account. Simply have them repeat all of the above steps. Alternatively, they can install the app and sign on with your user name and password. </li></ol><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-56153728752509880792023-04-29T11:04:00.000-07:002023-04-29T11:04:07.974-07:00Two or more people using the same iAqualink <h2 style="text-align: left;"> How can multiple people control the same system using iAqualink?</h2><h4 style="text-align: left;">Method 1: Have them sign in with the same credentials that you use. They would put in your email and your password. </h4><p>This should work. If it doesn't, I suspect that you need to update your own password. Older versions of the app allowed for weak passwords. Newer versions require stronger passwords. Perhaps you still have an old version of the app and the person installing it now is downloading the most recent version. To update your password use the forgot password feature. You will get a link in your email to reset it.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Method 2: Have them set up their own account:</h4><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>First they need to make sure that their phone is connected to the same 2.4 GHz wifi network as your iAqualink antenna is. This is a security feature and it only applies during this sign up process. </li><li>Download and install the Zodiac iAqualink app from the Apple App Store or the Google Play Store.</li><li>Make sure that the outdoor controller is in "Auto" mode. If it is in "Service" or "Time Out" you will not be able to connect. </li><li>Inside the app, select "Sign Up" and fill out the form.</li><li>On the app select "My Systems" (you may need to access this from the "hamburger" dropdown menu on the top left. </li><li>Once in "My Systems" select the + sign on the top right.</li><li>Select the first line, "Aqualink RS, PDA, Z4/TRi"</li><li>On the next page enter the device number that is printed on the label that is on the outside of the iAqualink antenna.</li><li>Make up a System Name. This can be your last name or anything that you call your backyard pool. The only times it matters what you call it is if you have two different systems or two pools (for instance, you have one pool at your primary residence and another pool at a vacation home.) </li><li>Select the "Add System" button and it should connect.</li></ol>If it doesn't connect confirm that you are on the same 2.4 GHz wifi network. The antenna may be connecting via a wifi extender or a guest network. For this sign up procedure to work, you must be on the same one during the add system part of the procedure. <p></p><p>If that doesn't work, confirm that all three lights on the bottom of the iAqualink antenna are lit. </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-26411083432084909412023-04-25T08:39:00.003-07:002023-04-25T08:39:55.625-07:00<p>An open letter to the managers of the SoCalGas Marketplace,</p><p><br /></p><p>I am the owner of Technical Pool Repair. I have been servicing and installing gas pool heaters in the SoCalGas territory since 1998. </p><p><br /></p><p>A pool heater is not simply an appliance that you plug in. It must be installed. But before that, it must be sized correctly to ensure that it receives enough gas for complete combustion and that it is installed on a system whose water flow is a good match for the flow requirements of the heater. For these reasons it is important that heaters be replaced under the guidance of properly trained contractors. It is irresponsible of the SoCalGas Marketplace to encourage home owners to purchase heaters online based on a few choices listed on your site. Home owners do not know about gas requirements or water flow. They almost invariably choose a heater that is less than ideal for their situation. If an oversized heater is installed where there is inadequate gas supply, it will result it incomplete combustion which means excessive pollution. It also means that this pollution -- this soot -- will soon be obstruct air flow through the heat exchanger. The heater will destroy itself in only a couple of years. This is why it is irresponsible to have the SoCalGas Marketplace set up as you currently do. </p><p><br /></p><p>The responsible way for SoCalGas to set up such a program would be to funnel interested pool owners to qualified contractors and then work together with those contractors. </p><p><br /></p><p>Additionally, the heaters listed on the SoCalGas Marketplace are not the most efficient nor the most current models. This is in part because the manufacturers have realized all of what I said about about sizing and professional consultations and have decided not to sell their any of their products or at least not the newest and most efficient models online. Manufactures in the last few years have realized the essential role that contractors play. Moreover, they realize that this role must begin with an initial consultation in which recommendations are made. A pool heater installer is not just someone who shows up to install whatever is purchased. A pool heater contractor must be involved in the selection as well as the installation. Not all heaters will work on all sites. </p><p><br /></p><p>Sincerely, </p><p><br /></p><p>Clint Combs </p><p>Technical Pool Repair</p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-36132583739433867072023-04-22T12:12:00.000-07:002023-04-22T12:12:04.783-07:00iAqualink with new router<p> So you installed a new router and now your iAqualink does not connect? Here is what you need to do:</p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Make sure your phone is signed on to a 2.4 gHz router connection. Some routers are too "helpful" and will try to offer a 5 gHz connection. A 5 gHz connection is faster, but has shorter range. The iAqualink only works on 2.4 gHz. Sometimes it helps to set up a guest network on your router and limit it to 2.4 gHz.</li><li>Go out to the iAqualink antenna and remove the cover (two Philips head screws) </li><li>Slide the switch from "wifi" to "wired" and back to "wifi." This erases your old router settings.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4oSIixxtVhuVivzzSQO-jZWaQAtsq6qfpfrNcN1bRFN83aYl3ZMX-scSWJZtdF2Cxs7j100yk42b7_ktLLc1ERCCvHrCwZuAJifwz3udUwT03nUpqX3FskA9XHNAjN4swq3eB5jxZT0Unag_-QoP0XV2003IW29SHNNljVJubl2-Li4FbKIQ_f-EIQ/s1024/iaqualink.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1024" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX4oSIixxtVhuVivzzSQO-jZWaQAtsq6qfpfrNcN1bRFN83aYl3ZMX-scSWJZtdF2Cxs7j100yk42b7_ktLLc1ERCCvHrCwZuAJifwz3udUwT03nUpqX3FskA9XHNAjN4swq3eB5jxZT0Unag_-QoP0XV2003IW29SHNNljVJubl2-Li4FbKIQ_f-EIQ/s320/iaqualink.webp" width="320" /></a></li><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Teach the antenna your new settings by going to the wifi settings on your phone. You will see one that says iAqualink. Sign on to that. A popup will show up with a list of wifi signals to choose from. Select yours -- remember this needs to be a 2.4 gHz signal and must be the one that your phone is already signed into.</span></div></li><li>Put the cover back on and wait a few minutes for it to connect. <br /></li></ol><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-7861327356708734532023-04-22T11:42:00.002-07:002023-04-22T11:42:43.815-07:00Earth Day<p> Looking to help your pool celebrate Earth Day? </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Save resources (and energy costs) when you invest in a quiet, energy-efficient <a href="https://www.technicalpoolrepair.com/services" target="_blank">variable-speed pump</a>. </li><li>Use less natural gas to heat your pool when you have us install a new 84% efficient Jandy Jxi pool heater (and get a $400 rebate from The Gas Company) see <a href="https://www.technicalpoolrepair.com/new-page-1" target="_blank">website</a> for details.</li><li>Instead of turning on your old 500 watt pool light, have us install a brilliant 37 watt <a href="https://www.technicalpoolrepair.com/services" target="_blank">color changing LED light</a> that turns your poolside into a party spot. </li></ul><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-56418768239242096532023-04-13T13:26:00.005-07:002023-04-13T13:27:52.825-07:00<h2 style="text-align: left;"> Go Green Financing</h2><h3 style="text-align: left;">Step by step guide</h3><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Step One - Customer Credit Approval: Customer submits a financing application to one of the program's lending partners. Note: Be sure to have the customer sign the Borrower Consent Form so the lender can inform you when credit approval occurs.</li><li>Step Two - Project Approval: Submit your proposed Itemized Invoice of eligible measure(s) along with any other related home improvements directly to the lender. (Resource: How to Properly Fill Out an Itemized Invoice).</li><li>Step Three - Project Completion: Once the lender has approved your project, complete the installation and submit a final invoice and the Certificate of Completion to the lender. Finalize all permits and complete the combustion appliance safety test if needed.</li><li>Step Four - Project Funding: The lender remits funding within 24 hours of the loan closing via check.</li></ul><p></p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-20749115371828645912022-03-18T17:28:00.000-07:002022-03-18T17:28:07.441-07:00New Department of Energy Standards <p>As of July 18, 2021 new U.S. Department of Energy regulations are now in effect. These new regulations mean that most new pool pumps will now have to be variable-speed energy-efficient pumps. </p><p>While you can still use whatever pump you currently have, any new pump or motor that is manufactured will now have to comply with these new energy efficient regulations. </p><p>This standard applies to almost all pumps used in the residential pool industry. </p><p>This supersedes state regulations, such as California’s Title 20, which took the lead in setting efficiency standards for pumps when it passed in 2005. Additionally, while Title 20 applied only to filtration pumps and only to residential pools, the Department of Energy regulations applies to all pool pumps residential and commercial including dedicated use pumps like booster pumps and water feature pumps. </p>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-89643558180695705482017-04-09T11:14:00.005-07:002017-04-09T11:14:52.938-07:00Edison Rebate<a href="https://www.sce.com/wps/portal/home/apps/heeronline/!ut/p/b1/pVRNc9owEP0rvXDUaC1_SDqa2iF2-Chg0uBLRpYX4gwYJ3Yynfz6CsKkMSSUtDpJ8ntvV8-7S1N6Q9NSPRdL1RSbUq2259S7lT0IL-MRRCKQFxDFQSzD2QDA4vQnTWmqy6Zq7ui81nirN2WDZXOLZQf2-w6oqloVeidad-AO8fHbplwVJW7ZlVpijnWxLHcnXeR0nqPSrtI5QS_LiSNyQbI8V0TohUAluGLM3qKfagxwoZ5WTYK_GjqHXTqvYaNgQuc8B0swixGtPUWczMmIRAEEBLLcNWLS8dpCAdZ6K3RD5-bp8MnyYeeMJXr-ZTSFqDfhzDhzHfZHXYuBYHv-CUCLD1fXAFE38PrRMIFR4u75b9aPkoE0_NCLHdllMLDP458AtPhiyDzzmU_kxfeZDdOj_I8Bf6mMKZav1dFyIXR9owIycfuePbbsI8CxTe1AvWRsQ2SPYTj1fRvA2wNO_ai2wgdOtnMYJVMD6EaBP2ahNfjBT79ixj06N2bxd2bz2DUA_4p3rWs78i06_VPbHl_kiCiJctE2JakdIgXThEkutYVSqdw5FDywZeT8t2DibDNk3O51Ixuu3C8Lxmc0QHH_8JD6-440_Xnz6YR4NAMgN7vCDJ3h5WaNh_ofFvj5-nXR4FpVhzYcVDXz3ttw1uyIz-ijf7Jhe8hUgzWpzUQul_XbRQeqzWZFqqd1tQ9_og2_FP7zOV2t1-IesxfM3IlZi7CIioioTIDtVs8v_UXQXwyHJM3c1fI3iz74ug!!/dl4/d5/L2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh/" target="_blank">Here</a> is the link to Southern California Edison's 2017 rebate.Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-63480883383505350352017-04-09T11:00:00.002-07:002017-04-09T11:10:37.917-07:00Work Around for using a Netgear Nighthawk routerThe Jandy iAquaLink remains the easiest and most reliable way to allow you to control your pool from your smartphone or tablet.<br />
<br />
Although the new iAqualink 2.0 works very well, there have been problems connecting to one particular router: the Netgear Nighthawk router.<br />
<br />
The easiest work around it to simply plug in another router to the LAN port of the Nighthawk and connect to WiFi using that new router. If you prefer to stick with the Nighthawk, click <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4CNjYDhPW4lSFdoUUZCNURlLTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">here</a> for instructions.<br />
<br />
<br />Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-46901806252493163612014-03-25T16:59:00.002-07:002014-03-25T16:59:33.261-07:00iAqualink Troubleshooting<i>(This is reprinted from a Jandy training document and is not an original post by Technical Pool Repair.)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<h3>
Tools: </h3>
• D-Link DIR-601 Wireless N 150 Home Router (referenced as “service router” in this document), if another router is purchased test it on an existing iAqualink install<br />
• One Touch Service Controller<br />
• Laptop or Access to Home Owners Computer (if using home computer a smart phone or tablet to test wifi signal strength<br />
• 100 ft Ethernet cable (optional)<br />
<h3>
Ensuring Proper Installation Procedure: </h3>
• Before going to the jobsite have the home owner e-mail the SSID and Password. Also ask if the home owner has used any specialists to install their network equipment. If so the specialist should be contacted in order to see if they need to involved in the install.<br />
• On-Site connect a laptop or smart phone to the homeowners network by copying and pasting the SSID and Password into necessary boxes. This proves the information provided by the home owner is correct.<br />
• After connecting to the network open an internet browser, such as internet explorer, and perform a “google” search. This will prove that an internet connection exists.<br />
• Use the laptop or smart phone to test the wifi signal near the location the iAqualink is to be mounted. The iAqualink needs a minimum of 2 signal strength bars, anything less will be tedious to operate and test and may not connect.<br />
• With the iAqualink disconnected from the Aqualink 485 network, plug the iAqualink into an available USB port on a computer. A pop up will appear, double click on a file labeled “settings.txt” (if on a MAC locate the USB drive and explore the folders for this file)<br />
• Locate the code line “SSID=” after the = copy and paste the SSID the homeowner has provided. Locate “Key” and copy and paste the network password the home owner has provided. Copying and pasting the information eliminates key stroke errors.<br />
• Click “file” and save. After saving reopen the “settings.txt” file and ensure the information is saved. Using this method ensures the information is written to the iAqualink.<br />
• Disconnect the USB cable and connect the red pin connection to the aqualink 485 netowork.<br />
• Observe the 3 lights on the side of the iAqualink. Red is power, orange means a connection with the router is established, green means a connection to the server has been established. It may take up to 10 minutes for a green light. If the green light flashes and kicks the orange light off there is a network issue and troubleshooting follows. There is no way to register the device with a username until the green light is on.<br />
<h3>
Troubleshooting </h3>
• Use a one touch service controller. Go to menu>help>diagnostics and check for a iAqualink Wifi controller listed under 485 remotes. If it does not appear there may be a 485 wiring issue or the RS chip was not updated to rev R. You can also use this menu to find where the network connection is stopped. This may be useful if a Media Specialist is involved.<br />
• Use your “service router” as an access point. First plug the router into an AC outlet.<br />
1. Plug the Ethernet cable in the router box into a “LAN” port on the home owners router.<br />
2. Plug the other end of the above Ethernet cable into the “internet” port of the “service router”<br />
3. The ((( wifi light will illuminate and then the earth light will illuminate<br />
• Connect your laptop to the “D-Link” network the “service router” has created. Open a browser and perform a google search to ensure the router has internet access. If the router does not have internet access try eliminating the home owners router and plug the “service router” directly into the Ethernet cable connected to the modem. If no internet access is possible a media specialist needs to get involved.<br />
• Once internet access is proven disconnect the iAqualink from the aqualink 485 network and plug the USB cable back in to the laptop and the iAqualink. Open the “settings.txt” information and rewrite the SSID and Key lines to reflect the new SSID and key required by the “service router”<br />
• After ensuring the above information is saved disconnect the iAqualink from the USB cable and connect the iAqualink back to the aqualink 485 network.<br />
• Observe the 3 lights on the side of the iAqualink, if all three lights are solid (allow up to 10 minutes) register the iAqualink to a user account and prove to the homeowner the problem is with their home network. The most economical solution is to purchase a router and “piggy back” it just as this troubleshooting document describes. They will not lose their existing network, just create an access point. Otherwise it is the home<br />
owners responsibility to resolve their network issue or go to a hard wired install.<br />
<div>
<h3>
Hardwire troubleshooting </h3>
<div>
• Disconnect the iAqualink from the 485 network. Slide the wifi switch to the wired position. </div>
<div>
• Plug an Ethernet cable directly to the back of the router and run it into the iaqualink. </div>
<div>
• Reconnect the iAqualink to the 485 network. When the green light comes on register the device with a user account and show the homeowner the problem is with their network and that a hard wired connection will bypass their security. A “power line adapter” can be used to avoid running a wire. However, power line adapters are polarity sensitive and the two outlets used must be on the same power leg. The power line adapter also cannot get wet. </div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-49510711017972558882013-12-03T19:32:00.001-08:002013-12-03T19:32:11.044-08:00Mysterious Water Damage to Control BoardI have a control system that is mounted outdoors on a wall in a standard metal power center -- just like hundreds of other control systems (Jandy Aqualink, Pentair EasyTouch, and Goldline.) But, for some reason, this one is getting water inside the power center and the water always damages the same spot on the board. You can see a hard water trace on the back of the board where it runs down.<br />
<br />
So how does the water get in to a sealed power center that is made to be mounted outdoors? Well, first I thought that it must be coming in past the weather stripping on the door. I replaced that. Next, when that didn't work, I tapped up the gap between the top of the box and the removable front service panel, but the water still came in.<br />
<br />
Finally, I think I found a clue:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnlH_C-WvIohFQLtO8doajdbSjx_PySGbA4JnVhAY-VtcB2pkIGlzwKQlu1wAJewfD3R-H9EwrVUVV_9fcd5SqNB-_lhN0P0eLD8xxlJ8ovwsntE6BmduN7wdsO7wAYCDn2TczcMLo6YmR/s1600/2013-12-03+10.24.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnlH_C-WvIohFQLtO8doajdbSjx_PySGbA4JnVhAY-VtcB2pkIGlzwKQlu1wAJewfD3R-H9EwrVUVV_9fcd5SqNB-_lhN0P0eLD8xxlJ8ovwsntE6BmduN7wdsO7wAYCDn2TczcMLo6YmR/s320/2013-12-03+10.24.23.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Look closely at the point where the outside covering has been stripped off of this temperature sensor wire. See the calcium / hard water deposits here? This is the temperature sensor wire for the solar panels. The other end of this wire is up on a second story roof. Evidently, water seeps into the upper end of the wire, drains down the inside and exits here where the outside covering has been stripped off to allow connection to the control board. Since the water is traveling inside the wire, it makes no difference that the wire drops lower than the power center and then goes up. (If the water was dripping down the outside of the wire this would prevent water from going inside).<br />
<br />
My solution? I decided to allow the water an alternative outlet besides where it connects to the board. To do this, I stripped some of the covering off (to allow it to escape) and then bent the wire into a U shape and poked it down into a hole that exits the control panel at the bottom. This way, the water should drip outside the power center.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XSYFz_idUqPYvl7zVlcfZx1u5uc5syY3dBnaO_kx0ExKQ3qG2sx8tywYHJXEOA_v2cp2rQcwwGVSGZPw0PSRJqFX6iny6vDyDakcaMTlAMDI8BfdiTeiyHVnb23Fcs8HkfAFKwUMZqCA/s1600/2013-12-03+10.53.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XSYFz_idUqPYvl7zVlcfZx1u5uc5syY3dBnaO_kx0ExKQ3qG2sx8tywYHJXEOA_v2cp2rQcwwGVSGZPw0PSRJqFX6iny6vDyDakcaMTlAMDI8BfdiTeiyHVnb23Fcs8HkfAFKwUMZqCA/s320/2013-12-03+10.53.58.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-57982587779440997322013-04-02T11:27:00.001-07:002014-02-07T16:58:46.165-08:00So Cal Edison Residential Pool Pump Rebates (Updated for 2014)<a href="https://www.sce.com/wps/wcm/connect/ff336ee6-23b1-47d2-85a6-0dbc11135345/SCE+Qualified+Variable+Speed+Pool+Pump+and+Motor+-+2-3-2014+-+SCECOM.pdf?MOD=AJPERES" target="_blank">Here</a> is a list of energy-efficient variable pumps that currently qualify for Southern California Edison's $200 consumer rebate when you upgrade from an existing single speed pump. Click <a href="http://technicalpoolrepair.com/2014%20HEER%20Mail%20In%20Rebate%20Application.pdf" target="_blank">here</a> for the mail in rebate application, or click <a href="https://www.sce.com/wps/portal/home/apps/heeronline/!ut/p/b1/pVRNc9owEP0rvXDUaC1_SDqa2iF2-Chg0uBLRpYX4gwYJ3Yynfz6CsKkMSSUtDpJ8ntvV8-7S1N6Q9NSPRdL1RSbUq2259S7lT0IL-MRRCKQFxDFQSzD2QDA4vQnTWmqy6Zq7ui81nirN2WDZXOLZQf2-w6oqloVeidad-AO8fHbplwVJW7ZlVpijnWxLHcnXeR0nqPSrtI5QS_LiSNyQbI8V0TohUAluGLM3qKfagxwoZ5WTYK_GjqHXTqvYaNgQuc8B0swixGtPUWczMmIRAEEBLLcNWLS8dpCAdZ6K3RD5-bp8MnyYeeMJXr-ZTSFqDfhzDhzHfZHXYuBYHv-CUCLD1fXAFE38PrRMIFR4u75b9aPkoE0_NCLHdllMLDP458AtPhiyDzzmU_kxfeZDdOj_I8Bf6mMKZav1dFyIXR9owIycfuePbbsI8CxTe1AvWRsQ2SPYTj1fRvA2wNO_ai2wgdOtnMYJVMD6EaBP2ahNfjBT79ixj06N2bxd2bz2DUA_4p3rWs78i06_VPbHl_kiCiJctE2JakdIgXThEkutYVSqdw5FDywZeT8t2DibDNk3O51Ixuu3C8Lxmc0QHH_8JD6-440_Xnz6YR4NAMgN7vCDJ3h5WaNh_ofFvj5-nXR4FpVhzYcVDXz3ttw1uyIz-ijf7Jhe8hUgzWpzUQul_XbRQeqzWZFqqd1tQ9_og2_FP7zOV2t1-IesxfM3IlZi7CIioioTIDtVs8v_UXQXwyHJM3c1fI3iz74ug!!/dl4/d5/L2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh/" target="_blank">here </a>to apply online.
Good news for landlords: since 2012, landlords (who typically pay to have pumps installed) qualify to receive the rebate even though their tenant pays the electric bill on the property.Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-37836293889567243692013-04-02T11:16:00.001-07:002013-04-02T11:16:37.704-07:00So Cal Edison Rebates for LED lightsMultifamily properties (apartments and home owner associations) now qualify for rebates if they upgrade their pool and spa lights to LED. There is a $50 rebate for those properties that operate their lights from dusk to close and a $75 rebate for those who leave their lights on all night. Click <a href="https://www.sce.com/wps/wcm/connect/94cded9e-f114-41ee-b833-46beec00f0ee/2013-2014+SCE+MFEER+Program+Application.pdf?MOD=AJPERES">here</a> for details.
Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-66020108387082550432012-07-26T22:39:00.003-07:002012-07-26T22:39:23.381-07:00Funky, turbid water<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
A Review of the Venetian swimming pools in Las Vegas:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The water in the main pools at the Venetian and at her sister
hotel the Palazzo is simply funky. There is no sparkle to it and you can barely
see the bottom in only 4’6” of water. With water quality like this, these are
not pools that you would want to put your face in—or really any bodily orifice.
Furthermore, as crowed and shallow as they are, these are not so much “swimming”
pools as they are “posing” pools or “standing with a beer in my hand” pools.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The main pool complex does have a lot to offer: amenities
include towel service, friendly hosts that will help you find a lounge chair, a
bar, cocktail waitresses, music, and countless pretty and not so pretty people.
For those wanting to pay a premium, there are also cabanas for rent. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The pools themselves are nothing special. They are a series
of shallow rectangles surrounded by a sea of lounge chairs and separated by
planters and pathways. At each end of these pools are extremely shallow areas
(about a foot of water). These areas are populated by floating lounges. The
centers of these pools are only slightly deeper. The deepest point in any of
these pools is 4’6”. With pools this shallow, there is no diving. Furthermore,
with as many people as there are standing in these pools, these pools really aren’t
good for swimming—at least not on a summer weekend. But the real reason not to
swim there is the horrible water quality. You shouldn’t put your face in these
waters. Despite the fact that I wouldn’t personally dare to get into these
pools, there was no shortage of people who were willing to and this is their
main problem.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As a Certified Pool Operator (CPO) and a pool contractor
with 22 years in the pool industry I am fully aware of the challenges that face
the pool operators here and at other major hotels. First is the sheer number of
bathers—and as discussing as it sounds, when someone first gets into a pool
they are bathing all sorts of products from their bodies. Each person brings in
their own unique blend of sunblock, moisturizer, hair products, and makeup. Plus
there are the bodily fluids: the sweat, the urine, and the occasionally vomit
from standing in the sun drinking alcohol all day. There are also spilled
drinks and detergents and dirt tracked in on people’s feet. All of this goes
into the water, but what takes it out? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Chlorine can oxidize the organics—the skin cells, the
bacteria, and so forth (that is, break them down into smaller parts), but chlorine
doesn’t eliminate organic matter from the pool nor can it effectively break
down the oil based sunblocks and makeup. As a result, organic refuse and an
oily film ends up staying in the water causing it to be cloudy and having a
dull look. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What a pool like this really needs is a clarifier to clump
this biofilm together in large enough chunks that the filter can take it out. Filtration
is key and a pool like this needs serious turnover. A standard commercial pool
should, according to most code requirements, turnover its entire volume in 6
hours. Now this isn’t quite as good as it sounds since the filtered water mixes
with the dirty water that is still in the pool. Because of this mixing of clean
and dirty, it takes about 4 turns of the pool (24 hours on a pool with a 6 hour
turnover to get 98% filtered water and 2% unfiltered. With a pool like this—with
such a large bather load, a 6 hour turnover is simply not enough to provide adequate
filtration. I would hope that these pools have a much shorter turnover time—something
closer to the 30 minute turnover that is required for commercial spas would
seem more appropriate. But whatever the turnover rate is, I can tell you from
experience that it is inadequate for a summer weekend. As the water really
looked bad—and that is the true test. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In addition to adequate turnover and filtration, pools like
these really need to be using enzymes to help break down these oily films that
float on their surfaces and cloud the water. It seems, however, that in the case
of the pools at the Venetian, that filtration, clarifiers, and enzymes were not
keeping up with the demand. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Besides the main funky pool complex, there is, however
another smaller pool complex on the property. This one has a small circular or octagon
shaped pool with a large planter in the center that is nice for cooling off and
a small warm pool – not quite spa temperature warm – but a comfortable
temperature for lounging if you aren’t moving much. There are also two smaller
spas (hot tubs / Jacuzzis) near by that are somewhat secluded by planters.
Although these pools weren’t perfect, they looked good enough that I felt OK
about getting in them – as I really did want to swim and spend time by the pool
– and I even felt OK about swimming underwater here. There is no music on this
side and drink service seems more miss than hit. <o:p></o:p></div>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-41479989034035952382012-02-23T13:42:00.000-08:002012-02-23T13:42:36.528-08:00California to update Title 20According to a recent <a href="http://aquamagazine.com/content/post/Calif-Looks-To-Update-Title-20.aspx" target="_blank">article</a> by Scott Webb in the online version of Aqua Magazine, the California Energy Commission is scheduled to open proceedings to consider updating the 2008 energy efficiency standards known as "Title 20." This will be an open project with calls for public written comments and hearings. More information to follow as events develop.Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-57523979752677531242012-02-13T17:28:00.000-08:002012-02-13T17:29:25.522-08:00Hayward Plant Tour<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErTexg97Mn8ujLpRl1LjaYFoB4a4YyE6rgn1nKh0KfLjKUwaa021O9VM3QIOqmnNsDwgBQ26rNvXvyAPtNL-Aa4wTlpIFF8Eisre_tggEyghagnTlkedG-8c1PQa6dkDBgrq5ucdMt49B/s1600/Filter+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErTexg97Mn8ujLpRl1LjaYFoB4a4YyE6rgn1nKh0KfLjKUwaa021O9VM3QIOqmnNsDwgBQ26rNvXvyAPtNL-Aa4wTlpIFF8Eisre_tggEyghagnTlkedG-8c1PQa6dkDBgrq5ucdMt49B/s200/Filter+1.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">filter production</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhOAH0p2mXfLwMy3ZvwbPwBBX86KYzfv-GPS7q7i8rt25z2rX3O4XolfB3NMePbU6hKYcrikfXoLlfLgxUvnVxfZ2B59Q4f017pz0Fsah7MiKhxwDhDBjhSm3rC1SVDFD2PfWHf0mcV9z/s1600/Filter+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhOAH0p2mXfLwMy3ZvwbPwBBX86KYzfv-GPS7q7i8rt25z2rX3O4XolfB3NMePbU6hKYcrikfXoLlfLgxUvnVxfZ2B59Q4f017pz0Fsah7MiKhxwDhDBjhSm3rC1SVDFD2PfWHf0mcV9z/s200/Filter+2.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">filter assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29sFRkWiiZUlujpa9lKlH_1AEdPGn4e-qaL1gba1DI22BWYX6S073MbdSuA98olifWPstO-04eGXrsZdLUx9pgxK9wZyQ-hh8EcUwqxifhxEYphLipOTmTPAPHilbSEuishAg3bpDXiun/s1600/EcoStar+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29sFRkWiiZUlujpa9lKlH_1AEdPGn4e-qaL1gba1DI22BWYX6S073MbdSuA98olifWPstO-04eGXrsZdLUx9pgxK9wZyQ-hh8EcUwqxifhxEYphLipOTmTPAPHilbSEuishAg3bpDXiun/s320/EcoStar+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EcoStar assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Today UPA chapter 31 took a tour of Hayward's manufacturing plant in Pomona, California. Here are some pictures from the tour.<br />
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All the plastic pieces start out as small plastic pellets. A vacuum hose sucks them up and injects them into a mold.<br />
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Each part (an impeller, pump housing, or filter tank) has a specially designed (and largely robotic) machine that produces it. All the machines for a single product are located in the same area of the factory. When Hayward has an order for more of a certain product (like a filter, a pump, or cleaner), they can restart that line in as little as twenty minutes and start making more of these.<br />
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Years ago, Hayward would make and then warehouse several parts and whole goods. They had about 6 warehouses in the Pomona area alone. In the last several years, in an effort to become leaner, Hayward went to a manufacturing method pioneered by Toyota in Japan. It generally goes by the name "just in time manufacturing." Now Hayward warehouses very few parts. When they have an order, they start up that section of the line and make the goods to order.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV046T8X8-XmL4xL42I27eX-IvglhO3RSn2MejZWdyMWkrmb0TgmQCL5AAWtBL3Au2TZdhb7vaUFSnn5VG63sf7DuHOfsiiDElnMlMkxspG-RGNoVK0VGjMLQVIyzAwdrd0ZqiSjv6PfoQ/s1600/Navigator+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV046T8X8-XmL4xL42I27eX-IvglhO3RSn2MejZWdyMWkrmb0TgmQCL5AAWtBL3Au2TZdhb7vaUFSnn5VG63sf7DuHOfsiiDElnMlMkxspG-RGNoVK0VGjMLQVIyzAwdrd0ZqiSjv6PfoQ/s320/Navigator+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The Pomona plant makes TriStar Pumps, EcoStar Pumps, Filters, and several different Pool Vacs in the Hayward line. If you have any of these Hayward products, they came from this Pomona plant. While Hayward also has plants in New Jersey, Tennessee, and Europe, these other plants all make different products. No two plants make the same product.<br />
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Hayward is continually looking to improve production. To do this, they employ a method called kaizen (Japanese for "improvement", or "change for the better"). Their kaizen process consists of a multi day brainstorming session where managers, engineers, and line workers work to make part of the production process better. According to Tony, the plant production manager, some improvement always comes out of this process--sometimes it is a big change, other times it is something small.<br />
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It is clear that Hayward takes kaizen seriously. Each work station is the product of significant planning and improvement. The end result is an ergonomically designed plant. The line workers seem to appreciate these efforts as is evidenced by their relatively long tenure. The average Hayward employee has worked there for 8 years and many have worked there more than 20 years. <br />
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Our tour ended at Hayward's test pool--a pool and spa combination with color changing LED lights, a cleaner, and several different pumps, filter, and heater setups including their new ASME certified commercial heater and a heat pump.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-35366109618440565052012-01-31T09:59:00.000-08:002012-01-31T10:05:18.557-08:00Pentair SunTouch TipsYesterday I installed a Pentair SunTouch with an Intelliflo VS+ pump.<br />
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This is a nice simple setup that allows the pump to change speeds depending upon whether it needs more power to send the water up to the solar panels on the roof or more water to satisfy the flow demands of a gas heater or the spa jets. So, for a basic pool & spa system with solar it is nice and simple.<br />
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However, there is a bit of a learning curve and some surprises in store for those not used to the SunTouch. The first is: HOW DO I STOP THIS THING?<br />
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On most pools, it is easy to turn off the pump to clean the basket. With the old mechanical time clocks, you just have to flip the switch in the timer. With the EasyTouch, IntelliTouch, Jandy Aqualink, and Jandy PDA you just press one button to switch from <b>Auto </b>mode to <b>Service </b>mode and the pump goes off.<br />
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Well, the <u>same principle</u> applies with the SunTouch, but it takes quite a few button pushes to get there. To turn the pump off if a schedule has turned it on, you need to switch from <b>Auto </b>to <b>Service</b>.<br />
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On the SunTouch:<br />
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"></div><ol><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">1.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Press <b>Menu</b> button 14 times until you see “Service Mode 14/14.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">2.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span><b>Right arrow</b> into the service menu.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">3.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Use <b>up</b> or <b>down arrow</b> to change from <b>Auto</b> to <b>Service</b>.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">4.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Press <b>right arrow </b>to select <b>Service</b> mode.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">5.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>With the pump in <b>Service</b> mode, clean the pump basket or filter as needed.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">6.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>To restart, repeat steps as needed this time changing from <b>Service</b> to <b>Auto</b> mode.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">a.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>In addition to <b>Service</b> and <b>Auto</b>, there is also a <b>Time Out</b> mode. It is like the <b>Service</b> mode, but it will automatically switch back to <b>Auto</b> after a 3 hour delay.<o:p></o:p></div></li>
</ol><br />
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
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</ol>Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4032719814626305102.post-39964901292662262662012-01-28T12:50:00.000-08:002012-01-28T12:50:47.009-08:00Possible Patent Infringement regarding Variable Speed Pumps<b>Pentair asks for an injunction that aims to force Hayward to stop selling the EcoStar.</b><br />
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Pentair Pool Products, manufacturer of the IntelliFlo and the IntelliPro lines of variable speed and variable flow pumps, in association with Danfoss Drives--the makers of their variable frequency drives, filed a motion on August 31, 2011 requesting an injunction that would stop Hayward, manufacturer of the EcoStar from selling their EcoStar pump.<br />
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Pentair & Danfoss (collectively referred to as Pentair in the brief) maintains that Hayward's EcoStar is in violation of three of Pentair's patents. In a preliminary hearing, the court found probable merit in Pentair's claims regarding patent infringement. At the same time, the court failed to see that any possible infringement would result in irreparable harm to Pentair. And, furthermore, in weighing matters of public interest in the matter, the court leaned slightly towards favoring Hayward.<br />
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As matters stand now, the preliminary injunction was denied on January 23, 2010, so Hayward, for the time being, can continue to sell and show its EcoStar product, but now the case moves to trial. Stay tuned.<br />
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A brief of the preliminary hearing can be found <a href="http://docs.justia.com/cases/federal/district-courts/north-carolina/ncedce/5:2011cv00459/116840/119/0.pdf?1327411972" target="_blank">here</a>.Clint Combshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04223030363125033402noreply@blogger.com1