Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Case study: Variable speed on Jandy RS

Yesterday I had a chance to install a variable speed pump on a pool that is controlled by a Jandy RS system. Now, this was an older system that uses the 52 pin board and was, therefore, not compatible with Jandy’s variable speed pump. While some of Jandy’s e-pumps come with an upgrade chip for the RS control system, the chip will not fit in a 52 pin board – it only fits in boards made within the last year or two. Thus, if I were to use Jandy’s e-pump, I would have to upgrade the board. This was too expensive.
Instead, I chose to use a Pentair Intelliflo VS3050. This is the pump that used to be called the Intelliflo 4 x 160. The VS in the name indicates Variable Speed (as opposed to their other pump that is variable flow). The 4 stood for 4 speeds and the 160 stood for the max gpm.
To use the VS3050 with the Jandy RS system I had to used Intellicom II. This is a major advance over the first generation Intellicom. This is a small cell phone size adapter that converts the 24 v relay outputs of the Jandy system to RS485 communication protocol that selects the pump speed.
The Pentair reps will tell you that the Intellicom requires the use of a separate auxiliary per speed. This isn’t quite true, and if you did it that way, it would be complicated for the customer to use.
Here is how I setup my install. I set the following speeds on the pump. (I set the speeds before connecting the controller):
Speed 1: I set this to a speed fast enough to operate the suction pool vacuum.  Pressing the “Filter Pump” button on the Jandy activates this speed.
Speed 2: A super low speed for filtration, This is just fast enough to break the plane of the water with the skimmer wier. The “Low Speed” button on the Jandy activates this speed. (Turn on dip switch 2 to set “Aux 2” to “Low Speed.”) This is the only extra auxiliary that is necessary to use that is not used with a single speed pump.
Speed 3: A speed suited for the 400,000 BTU heater --somewhere close to 40 gpm. This is higher than the low speed setting. Imagine what would happen if the heater was turned on when the “Low Speed” was selected. The pressure switch would be marginal and the heater would not have the minimum flow that the heater required. To avoid this, I used the “Electric Heater” relay output on the top of the Jandy board near the actuator outputs to activate Speed 3. The Logic of the Intellicom is such that it always selects the higher of the speed number if more than one is selected. In other words, if both speed 2 (low speed) and speed 3 (heater speed) are selected, it will run at speed 3.  This protects the heater. It is also fool proof. The customer can’t select the wrong speed.
Speed 4: This is a high speed for the spa jets. It is really cool how I activate this speed. I used the “spare aux” relay output located on the back of the RS control board. To get this relay output to activate when the spa is turned on, set dip switch 6 to “on". (This does not work on Rev. G or earlier chips--you must upgrade those chips to take advantage of this feature.) This way, any time the spa is switched on, the pump automatically goes to speed 4. The customer doesn’t have to do anything different. They just press the spa button as usual and the jets come on high.
Two good things about this installation:
  1. First is saves energy. The customer should save around $900 per year.
  2. Second, it is no more complicated for the customer than would be a two-speed pump. While the pump itself has more speeds and is more adjustable, all the complexity is kept in the background. It is very simple for the user.

12 comments:

Jeremy said...

Clint,
I performed the very same upgrade earlier this summer. Smooth and successful. The intelicom is a pretty cool little kit. Jandy products are not very common here in my market and i've not had another opportunity for such an application since.

Great blog you got here. Wish I could make the time to do something similar.

-Jeremy
. I fix brokenn pools, spas, & hot tubs
Florida Leisure Pool & Spa
www.FLLeisure.com

Clint Combs said...

I used this method today on an older Jandy RS controller with a Rev. G chip. With this revision, the #6 dip switch does not turn on the spare aux in the spa position. I still needed to send a signal to the IntelliCom2 to turn on speed 4 for the spa. This is what I did: I assigned the "Cleaner" JVA socket to the same Aux as the Spa Booster pump. This way, anytime the Spa Booster pump is on, I will get a reaction in that JVA socket. I then connected a pig tail from that socket (using only the black and red wires) to the #4 input of the IntelliComm2. This way, when the customer turns on the Spa Booster pump (a separate pump), the VS+ pump will also ramp up to its highest speed.

Jeremy said...

The intellicomm and Jandy automation are a perfect combo. Did the same thing on a Haayward Aqualogic few weeks ago. I've installed a couple of them now up in the Jacksonville, FL market.

Anonymous said...

Guys, this is very clever. I've been googling around to see how to connect an IntelliFlo pump to a Jandy controller. Jandy tech support gave me a lame answer to just connect the pump to the high voltage terminal. Clearly that particular support person has no concept of electronics. The only thing that would accomplish is turning the pump on or off.

I find it interesting that Jandy gives details in their manual about how to set and change speeds of a variable speed pump, yet not a clue as to how to actually make the pump connection to their controller.

As a electronics engineer, I am really impressed with your method.

I am going to try this. I have the newer Rev R board that claims to support the Pentair pump, so now I am wondering if I even need the IntelliCom card.

Again, cheers.

Unknown said...

I decided to go with a VS after my single speed motor went out. Prior to buying a new VS I did some research to see how it would work with my Jandy system. I am sure that most of you know there is not much info out there to be helpful. After coming across Clint’s post, it started to make things more clear and I was able to get everything set up.

Just in case there is others that may need some help, I want to post my configuration. Keep in mind just like most people, I wanted to try to keep my costs down. I was able to find a replacement motor that was a VS called an EcoTech EZ by US Motors (1 ½ HP). The reason why I started to go with this was that it was a good match for my Hayward TriStar Housing (wet end). My Jandy system was an older one with the 52 pin rev L chip. Now I could have used this PCB but thought I would upgrade to a new one that gave me wireless control.

Ok, now here is where it started to get real tricky. After talking to Jandy and US Motors I kept getting conflicting stories on how and if the Pump and Jandy would work together. I finally got an engineer from US Motors that is based in St. Louis that could really give me some good info (Prior all I got was someone in Asia). I was informed that I needed an interface adapter similar to the Intelliflo. So $122 later I have been able to get everything working like I want.

First I have my pump setup to run at 30% 24/7 but when it is time for the Polaris and Spa this is what I did. I took Clint’s advice and set my custom flow for the spa to 100% and then connected the 24v wire from the Spare relay output to the interfaces #4 input. I also turned the #6 dipswitch to on this way when I press the spa button on my Jandy it will speed the pump up to 100% for awesome jet flow.

Now for the cleaner/Polaris. Since the filter pump has to be one even though I have a booster pump for the Polaris, I tapped into the low voltage side of the actual booster pump relay switch and then plugged the other end into the #3 input on the interface device. When I press the cleaner button or when it comes on at its scheduled time, it will bump the speed up to 70% which is just enough for the Polaris to work and save some money.

That is really all I had to do because I don’t have any other features. But this was a big help and I look forward to saving some good money with this pump. Thanks again Clint for your hard work.

Unknown said...

Thanks for the info. I'm adding a Hayward EcoStar VS pump to a legacy Jandy Aqualink RS system. I'll need to use the extra aux relay on the rear of my power control board--as you did. Where does one get a connector/pigtail to use the empty socket on the board? (2-wire)

Unknown said...

I'm considering adding the Pentair Intelliflo VS 011018 to my pool and I need to integrate it with my AQUALINK RS8. Will it work? What will I need to do to get it to work?

Chuck Davis said...

Here is some further information for folks with the EcoTech EZ VS motor.

The IntelliComm II and EcoTech EZ Interface Adapters appear very similar, and may even be OEM'ed from the same source. It is too risky to assume that they are interchangeable, however, since the RS485 commands might be different.

BUT......The (downloadable) installation manual for the IntelliComm II is *much* better than the EcoTech manual. The IntelliComm II manual shows which controllers it works with and exactly how to connect to each controller. One trick it shows is how to tap the low-voltage side of the high-voltage relays. These instructions are directly applicable to the EcoTech EZ Interface Adapter.

I am still researching controllers, and would appreciate any suggestions. The only requirement is 9-24 V AC/DC power and four 9-24 V AC/DC timed outputs (one with freeze guard). So far the Zodiac (Jandy) AquaLink Z4 looks good. It doesn't have the unnecessary fancy programming and separate high-voltage panel that a lot of controller include. Is there another controller anybody would recommend?

(I'm having to add a controller because the freeze guard built into the EcoTech EZ motor only runs the pump at 30% speed, which is too slow for my water feature.)

Unknown said...

Further EcoTech EZ VS motor info.

The EcoTech "on-motor" controller has 4 "timer/flow" programs ... Mon-Fri flow 1&2 ... Sat/Sun flow 1&2.

There are 4 additional custom "flow only" programs you set up using the "onboard" controller.
Only these 4 custom flow programs are accessible on the RS485 bus to the EcoTech EZCom1 interface adapter.
The interface adapter is a simple on/off command for each of these 4 custom flows, the interface adapter runs on 9-24VDC.
You don't have to use a dedicated expensive Pool interface, I suggest using a low cost WiFi sprinkler or outdoor light timer to control these custom flow cycles. When a custom flow is running it over-rides the on-motor timer.

A low cost DIY IOS/Android interface is easily realized.

Unknown said...

Addition DIY solutions.

The EcoTech EZ "on motor" controller also uses the RS485 data bus, therefore you can remote mount the controller using the 40' RS-485 that comes with the Interface Adapter Kit. I moved mine inside my house to save it from the scorching Arizona sun, using 4 stand offs to mount the controller to a kitchen cabinet. You will have to MacGyver a cover to seal off the opening on the motor. I used a 12" x 12" black polycarbonate sheet and sealed with clear silicone, this neatly act's as a sun screen for the entire motor. Next I drilled a 1/4" hole on the pump housing and wired the Interface Adapter to the old "on-motor" controller plug using some extra wire from the 40ft RS-486 cable. This set up allows me to run my salt water chlorinator when the pump is on.

Now days I control the EcoTech EZ motor (and my sprinklers) via a Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller (Check Amazon) I mounted the EZCom1 Interface Adapter inside the Ranchio with some 3M double sided tape. As a redundancy the original motor controller takes over in the event of a web based failure of the Rachio.

Peace!

Holstebro said...

I was so happy to read this in that the SPARE AUX relay and dip switch 6 settings "trick" would solve my problem of activating a higher speed on my Hayward ECOSTAR VSP pump when activating the SPA mode. On problem I have is....that it doesnt work :-( meaning that the pump remains at standard pump speed in SPA Mode. The pump is already in relay control mode and I am seeing variable speeds being activated when i.e. when activating cleaner mode, but for some reason, its like the Spare AUX output does not communicate with the pump properly. I am guessing that I am doing something wrong, so any guidance would be be highly appreciated. There are 2 wires going into the low voltage relay connections (INP2) at the Hayward Ecostar pump and I basically running these straight to the 2 pin socket connected to the output of the SPARE AUX at Aqualink RS Board. Is that the correct wiring or do I need to have a relay contact inbetween and if so, what type/specs am I looking for?

Thanks for a great blog...and Happy 4th!!!

JMK said...

This worked very well for me today. I would not have known about the DIP Switch 6 setting and would have gotten stuck. Many thanks!